Becoming a Mailler

6 Pliers A.JPG

Simply put, I’m a chain maker. I became enchanted with chain maille in 2006 when I first came across this unique style of jewelry. Browsing in the art section of a bookstore, I came across a slim volume of chain maille projects complete with richly detailed photographs. As I stood looking at these spectacular projects I honestly experienced a feeling not unlike when I met my husband for the first time - love at first sight.  How could it be, I marveled, that these glorious pieces could be made up of nothing more than little rings? Right then and there I decided, “I will learn to do this and it is going to be awesome.” 

Making chain maille did not come naturally to me. Despite receiving an undergraduate degree in Studio Arts where you explore many types of “making” and despite having many years of experience working on a variety art projects, from making small detailed objects that I sold in a Soho gallery to painting a huge outdoor mural in NYC’s East Village, I seemed decidedly unsuited to chain maille. There was nothing remotely awesome about my first attempts.

I found the rings small, slippery and hard to grasp without marring them. Holding the pliers felt clumsy and awkward and I struggled to follow basic directions.  My first efforts looked disturbingly similar to those of the average fifth grader. How could something that looked so effortless be so hard? My expectation of sliding into my rightful place in the world of chain maille, was not going according to plan. 

Luckily, I had one thing going for me - stubbornness. I would not allow these little rings to defeat me. I would master chain maille. I kept going…and like most things in life, if you stick with it well past the point of wanting to throw in the towel, past the point where you don’t understand why you won’t call it quits, I found success. 

My technique improved. My weaves became smoother and cleaner. I began to find my rhythm. Finally I hit the zone, that elusive place where the work feels effortless, the process is engaging and time drops away. Of course, the minute I start on a new design or weave, the zone is gone.

I began to make variations on traditional weaves and played with the size and scales of my designs. I focused on the kind of finish I wanted my work to have and began to think more about all the details that went into making a piece of jewelry be successful.

And then it happened. A stranger, a woman at the grocery store, stopped me to ask, “Where had I bought the bracelet I was wearing?” “You made it!” she exclaimed. “Can I pay you to make one for me?” “Yes, you can pay me to make one for you.” And then it happened again. And then, again. I was crossing into a new phase.

I knew I needed at least a minimum of basic jewelry training. I’d learned some basics on my own, but I needed some hands-on training and guidance from a jeweler. I had basic questions about practical concerns.  “How sturdy does a bracelet need to be?” (Ridiculously sturdy.)  “What is the best kind of clasp to use?” (It depends on the piece.) How do you decide if an earring design is too heavy?” (If you think it’s too heavy, it probably is.) I had lots more questions, including questions about making design and aesthetic decisions.

I met a wonderful jewelry instructor who knew about chain making. He helped me grow both an artist and as a future business owner. My teacher was beyond encouraging. “You’re joining a tiny subset of jewelers,” he told me. “You’re a chain maker. It’s a real thing…and I think you’re ready to start.”

In 2011, I opened the doors of Pat Brazill Chain Maille Jewelry for business and have been making maille ever since.